Sports climbing, rock climbing, mountaineering and via ferrata in Slovenia

Rock climbing

Slovenia has a mixture of valley and mountain crags, composed of good quality limestone and unlike some parts of Europe, the routes tend not to be overused and polished. There are literally dozens of sport crags with thousands of routes, all of which are sensibly bolted and solid. The climbing is perfect either for those who wish to combine climbing as part of their holiday, or for those who wish to climb solidly for a week or two.

Within 15 minutes of Chalet Lenart there’s climbing at Kamnik, which has 39 sport routes of grades 4c-7a (mainly 4 to 5c+). There is also Preddvor with 53 routes (4a-8a+) and a small crag below Krvavec with 12 routes (4b-7c+) All these are within 15 minutes of the chalet and are situated in forests making them ideal in the hot summer months.

Slightly further away (30 minutes), there’s loads of climbing around Bled, with 7 main crags offering over 350 routes (including Bodesce, Bohinjska Bela, Bitenj potok, Bitnje & Bohinj), all of which are well bolted on compact limestone rock. All the routes are generally single pitch with a good range of grades at all of the crags; with the majority in the 6a to 7b range The ideal time to visit Bled for rock climbing is from spring through to the autumn.

Mountaineering

Getting out into the mountains is a favourite national pastime, with Slovene mountaineers counting among the best in the world.

There is an abundance of well-supplied huts (doms), as well as some shelters and bivouacs without provisions. Most of the mountain huts have retained an old-world atmosphere, and have not become Alpine hotels. The majority of huts are open and staffed only during the summer season, when reservations are recommended, but some offer lodging all year round. Mountain huts provide beds, food, drink and information.

Triglav is the highest mountain in Slovenia and best tackled as a two day expedition. Alternatively, for a far quieter and just as challenging and enjoyable experience, try the Kamnik Alps rising up immediately behind Chalet Lenart. Here you can tackle peaks such as Skuta (2532m), Grintovec (2558m) and Storzic (2132m).

Via ferrata

When people think of via ferrata, they generally think of the Dolomites but Slovenia offers an unforgettable via ferrata experience away from the masses, with routes to suit everyone from novices to experts. The Julian Alps are an extension of the Dolomites but the area is compact and accessible with an excellent bus service and numerous mountain huts. There are several routes of various grades up Prisank from Kranjska Gora (45 minutes from Chalet Lenart), including a spectacular one through a window in the mountain. Nearby Mojstrovka north wall provides a spine tingling ascent.

If you want even more solitude though head up to Ceska Koca hut from Jezersko, from which there are two classic via ferrata routes leading into the peaks of the Kamnik-Savinske Alps that are little known outside Slovenia.

 

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